For those of you who need more info, like their instructions to be a bit more in depth or who have time to kill…read on
Don't forget that these plants will be in position for more than one year so good preparation can be very rewarding. If you have a good garden soil that has been regularly tended and growing good healthy plants then there won’t be much to do. Adding a little fertiliser to the surrounding soil will help by giving the soil fertility a boost. Mixing a little well rotted garden compost into the bottom of the planting hole will help too. If your garden suffers with poorer conditions then you may need to do a bit more to keep your Hairy pot plants happy.
Weed clearance - If you are after a non weedy garden then you will need to make sure you remove as many as possible of the perennial weeds (those that grow back each year from their root system (nettles, couch grass, dandelions, etc). These weeds are persistent little blighters as they keep growing back from any bits of live root left in the soil. If you have a big problem with them, seek some expert advice on the best ways to get rid of them. The annual weeds that just spread by seed are easier to clear but remember the earlier you catch these the less weed seed is left to grow again.
Soil improvement - We have two aims here, to improve the structure of the soil itself and improve its fertility levels. Generally speaking most soils will benefit hugely from the addition and incorporation of lots of well-rotted organic matter, whether that is garden compost, manure, mushroom compost or green waste. The addition of a general fertiliser will also help. Just make sure that any compost is well rotted and mixed it in well with the soil, to dilute any potential problems. We have experienced problems in the past with too much of a good thing (and not just in the garden!), it is possible to scorch and kill roots and leaves with a too heavy fertiliser/compost application.
Planting it - We are looking to achieve a planting depth with the pot compost surface being at or fractionally below soil level. The advantage of having a slightly lower planting level is that subsequent watering is more effective, but if you have a wet soil watch out for potential rotting at the plant base. If you plant too shallowly, the roots will dry quicker and may die.
You might find that there is a ring of coir pot visible above the surface, if you want a neater finish it will be easier to rip the top of the Hairy pot off prior to planting. Taking the pot top off may also reduce water loss in dry sandy soils or hot weather. Any pot remaining above ground will certainly be slow to break up completely. You can tidy it into the compost heap, put it in the planting hole or best of all, leave it on the soil surface near the plant. This could have a couple of benefits, it creates a dry rough barrier that may help slow up the slugs and snails, and in the nesting season, can be useful for the birds.
A little loosening of any compacted soil around the hole can be beneficial to help quick and easier rooting from around the pot, although don't get too carried away as loose soil dries out quicker.
Make sure that your Hairy pot plant is well watered before planting out. Once the hole is dug, put your Hairy pot plant in the hole, refill around the pot and firm the soil gently. Leaving you with no pot to store or throw away. Water the plant in well after planting and water regularly for a few weeks until it is well established. Depending on soil conditions the pot will take a few weeks to break up below ground but meanwhile all those roots that have been air pruned on the nursery will shoot through the pot wall, grow into the surrounding soil and the plant should romp away. A little extra help in these early days will make a huge difference. Help them out by keeping them watered, especially in the early weeks. A damp soil will certainly aid quicker pot break up and plant growawayability! Keeping competition from weeds at bay will give your new hairy friends space to grow and flourish.